Albanian Coastal Trail

A scenic drive along the glistening bays of the Ionian Sea brings us to the trailhead in Kudhës. We ascend the winding village road, passing through olive groves and into the heart of the settlement. Beneath the shade of the central plane tree, we pause with the locals before continuing on a gently rising path toward Qeparo.

The trail is adorned with oleander and cypress, and flocks of goats grazing the slopes look up at us with curiosity. After a final short climb to a pass, the horizon opens: the deep blue Ionian Sea spreads out before us, with Corfu visible in the distance. Soon, the old town of Qeparo comes into view, perched above olive fields and overlooking the tranquil shore. Here, time seems to stand still among the stone houses and cobbled lanes. A light lunch in a village taverna provides the perfect break.

In the afternoon, we follow a shepherd’s trail down to Borsh, where our transfer awaits. Depending on conditions, the guide may also choose to shorten the walk by descending directly to Qeparo Beach, with time for a refreshing swim. On the return drive, we may make a stop at the protected bay of Porto Palermo, once a military base. Here stands Ali Pasha Tepelena’s intriguing castle on a small peninsula, whose thick walls and commanding position reveal its remarkable strategic design.

Activity: ↻9-12km ↑375-425m ↓375-425m 🕑4-5h

Transfer: 20+30 min

Today’s walk takes us from the hillside village of Vuno down to the beaches that have made the Albanian Riviera famous. After a short drive, we begin with a stroll through Vuno’s narrow lanes - whitewashed houses stacked along the hillside, centuries-old Orthodox churches, and a central café where locals gather, watched over by a partisan memorial.

From here, we descend through olive groves and Mediterranean scrub, the air carrying the first hints of the sea. Our path leads to Jal, once dubbed “Albania’s Ibiza,” and nearby the beautiful cove known as the Aquarium, whose name comes from its remarkably clear waters. It’s an irresistible place to pause for a swim.

Continuing along a red-soiled coastal trail accompanied by the sound of waves, we reach Livadhi Beach, another perfect spot to rest or swim. From here, the trail continues on foot back into Himarë town, where we return to our hotel by the sea.

Depending on conditions, the guide may adjust the route to continue from Vuno to Gjipe, which shortens the walking day while still offering a rewarding coastal experience.

Activity: ↻12.5km ↑250m ↓550m 🕑5h

Transfer: 30 min

A narrow mountain road takes us up to the “Balcony of the Riviera.” The village of Pilur sits proudly on a high plateau, 700 meters above the sea. From the partisan memorial next to the village café, we follow the old caravan route downhill toward the coast.

The entrance to the gorge is scented with oregano and wild mint - though legend says the devil haunts this place, so best not to linger too long. Ancient pines give the upper section an almost alpine feel, before the vegetation gradually becomes more Mediterranean. Eventually, we reach an olive grove with tall ferns, where a few old communist bunkers still lie hidden.

A backcountry roads leads us into the old town of Himarë, perched on a rocky outcrop 250 meters above the bays. We stroll through medieval lanes lined with oleander, explore the remains of the Cyclopean walls, and take in sweeping views of the Riviera. From there, we descend along the cobblestones of the old donkey path back toward the sea. The trail continues along the coast, through Mediterranean scrub to secluded coves with crystal-clear water - a beautiful way to round off today’s walk.

Depending on conditions, the guide may also choose an alternative route from Lukovë over the Lavan Pass to Piqeras, offering a different but equally scenic perspective on the Riviera.

Activity: ↻9.2-14km ↑150-250m ↓850-950m 🕑4-5h

Transfer: 45 min

Today we head into the gentle hills south of Himarë, where time seems to move at a slower pace. In the village of Lukovë, we wander through its narrow alleys before entering long stretches of olive groves, their terraces carefully shaped by human hands. Many of these slopes were carved during the communist era, when prisoners were forced to terraform the landscape entirely by hand.

After a gentle descent with coastal views, we reach the quiet southern end of Bunec Beach. Here, the wide horizon, calm sea, pebble beach and striking emptiness feel almost like a scene from a deserted film set. Following the shoreline, we pass a relic of concrete quays before climbing a little-used path back into the terraced hills, with turquoise waters shimmering below us.

The trail continues along the hillside, wrapped in a Mediterranean atmosphere of herbs and sea breezes, until we reach the longest beach of the Riviera in Borsh. There’s time for a refreshing swim and cool drink before our transfer brings us back to the hotel.

Activity: ↻12km ↑225m ↓400m 🕑4h

Transfer: 45 min + 30 min

Today we leave Himarë and drive up the winding road to the Llogara Pass (1,043 m). Opposite the towering peaks of Qorre and Cika, a challenge awaits: this is our longest walk of the journey so far.The hike begins with a steady climb to the radio towers before continuing along the rocky Thanasi Ridge. To the west, the green slopes of the Karaburun Peninsula plunge into the Ionian Sea, while to the east the horizon opens toward the Adriatic. We then ascend the summit of Mt. Gjipali (1,446 m), where we pause for a picnic and take in sweeping views over the coastal mountains and seascapes. (In poor weather, the ascent may be omitted)

The descent leads through across the vast mountain into the Deep Pass, an alpine pasture, and further into the lush, almost rainforest-like Llogara National Park. By late afternoon, we arrive on foot at our mountain hotel, nestled at the rim of the forest. There’s time to relax or enjoy a short stroll before gathering for dinner in the crisp mountain air.

Depending on conditions, the guide may decide to swap today’s program with tomorrow’s walk, adjusting the sequence for the best possible experience.

Activity: ↻5-11km ↑425-550m ↓500-625m 🕑4-5h

Transfer: 45 min

A short transfer brings us to the trailhead at the highest point of the Llogara Pass (1,043 m). A narrow, partly steep trail leads upward through ancient snakeskin pines. During the communist era, these giants were tapped for resin; today they stand in quiet dignity, surrounded by chamomile and sage.

Following a zig-zagging shepherd’s path, we steadily gain height until the first viewpoint opens over the endless blue of the Ionian Sea and the length of the Albanian Riviera. Our main goal lies beneath the rocky summit of Qorre (2,018 m): the Dhjopuri Saddle (1,600 m). Here we pause to take in sweeping views of the Llogara Pass and it’s the perfect spot for a high picnic break.

From here, the guide may offer the option to extend the hike all the way to the summit of Mt. Qorre. This is a considerably longer and more demanding route, while those who prefer a shorter day can retrace their steps to the panoramic restaurant at the pass and sample a local delicacy: Sheep’s yoghurt with honey and walnuts.

In the afternoon, the group reunites at the pass, where a beer-garden restaurant offers a final refreshment. From here, a driver picks us up for the transfer to Tirana, Albania’s modern capital, where we arrive in the early evening.

Activity: ↻5-7km ↑550-1000m ↓500-1000m 🕑4-7h

Transfer: 3.5 h

Depending on your flight time, there may be an opportunity to enjoy a last stroll through Tirana before departure. Sip a coffee at one of the lively cafés as the city wakes up, or browse the bustling New Bazaar for edible souvenirs to take home. If time permits, don’t miss Bunk’Art 2 or the House of Leaves, two remarkable museums dedicated to Albania’s communist era, both just a short walk from Skanderbeg Square.

When it’s time to leave, we’ll take care of your 30-minute transfer to the airport or international bus station. By default, this is scheduled 2.5 to 3 hours before your flight. Thank you for joining us on this journey - we look forward to welcoming you back for more discoveries in the Balkans!